Ma golf sik aauchu

This is where I have coffee before my Tuesday morning Nepali lesson.

Okay, I was trying to figure out if there was any possible way I could do this post in Nepali. There is, as of yet, no shot of that happening. I could tell you how many tables are in my house, or how many pens are on said tables. I could probably explain to you how many people are in my family, and what their relation to me is. I could even tell you that the watermelon is expensive, and to drop the price. None of this relates to golf. What I can say is ma golf sik aauchu. It means "I teach golf". I guess I could also tell you I play golf, ma golf khelnchu. But that would be a lie, since I barely practice anymore. When I first got here I played almost every day and was on the verge of getting my swing into some kind of shape. However, since the weather has changed I have not really had the desire to pick up a club and actually play golf. Today was the final round of the Nepal Caddie Tournament, and after watching six holes I felt the desire coming back; I wanted to go hit balls right away, I was thinking about my swing again instead of analyzing video of someone else. I've been so caught up in getting the move to Pokhara under way,  worrying about grouping the juniors on saturdays and ways to get them their own "tour", and the yardage guide that I hadn't really even contemplated playing golf. I mean it definitely hasn't been all work, as I've been exploring Kathmandu and drinking copious amounts of coffee. But still, I am ready to play golf again. Well, maybe tomorrow. Enjoy some new pictures...

The caddies turned players listening to pre-round instructions

These are in the same restaurant. I'm still not sure if they're for show or for sale. Dig the crooked picture.

These women are manicuring the grass by hand. Now quit complaining about the glass ceiling your desk job.

A pretty sweet par three that almost ensures a bogie or worse if you're short. Or long.

Preparing the trophy presentation.

The presentation itself, happening on the recently sanded practice green.

Why Scottie Pippen? Why not?

 Okaaaay..As I sit here drinking hot tea and feeling warmer than I have all day I am continually reflecting on the cab ride back from the bookstore I had today. I had to pick up some supplies to continue building the RNGC yardage guide, and foolishly grabbed the most outspoken cabbie I could find. It was foolish because I have always adhered to the advice I once read in Three Cups of Tea. Greg Mortensen always grabbed the most quiet cab driver possible and it worked out for him. Well, I'm pretty sure my cab driver, despite his penchant for claiming to have the best cab, had no idea how to get me to where I was headed. We ended up in the middle of the city, making a ton of u-turns and stuck in traffic for about an hour before we reached my place. He was the first Nepali I've seen visually upset and cursing at the traffic. It was quite an experience since most of the taxis drive somewhat safely. Disclaimer- safely by Kathmandu standards, which would be criminal in the US. This dude was cutting people off, people, not cars, cussing and chewing tobacco like crazy. I think I did the air brake thing a few times, a habit I thought I'd grown out of while over here, and my head definitely hit the roof a few times. These cars are not built for people six feet tall. I empathized with him and tried to speak some Nepali to get him to laugh at me, but it wasn't happening. When you drive in Nepal, the space you're in is your space. If someone can squeeze in front of you, and they do, they have the right of way since, well, you weren't there- how could it be your space. Anyway, we made the 20 minute trip in just under an hour fifteen. Pictures of a cab ride are coming in a few posts, so stay tuned.

I don't know why I included this, but here's my buddy Mike with Scottie Pippen.

The rough draft of the yardage guide

Attaching the targets.

This is the reception area at the guest house I currently reside in

This is a view of my walk back to said guesthouse. It's amazing people drive into these alleys and somehow get out. Although I have seen more than one car totally stuck.

The corner after getting around the cars. Only 100 yards left until home sweet home

I did not want to get out of bed today to begin with, as it was dreadfully cold anywhere but under my blanket..and sleeping bag..and sweatshirt. Here's how I forced myself up. I slammed a mountain dew and rolled onto the floor and began doing push ups until I was breathing heavy and my arms burned. It's always fun to see your breath in the morning, and the only way to combat that is to force yourself into exercise. (side note - my injury wasn't healed all the way, and I am now slightly re-injured. I think some stretching would have helped, but I read this article the other day.)

The Walk Off

Okay,(almost forgot that time) each Saturday we host a junior clinic beginning at 1pm. This week we had 43 students with varying degrees of golf aptitude. The logistics involved in handling this many students between three pros is interesting. Today we had three different stations, a short game station, a throwing/target station developed by Sachin, and the putting green. The clinic lasted a few hours and that was that. I'm including a bunch of pictures, which I'm certain will describe the scene better than me. Other than that....Nick Becks will be joining me in Nepal in February. I've also included a picture of him, for your pleasure. I've been watching a lot of CNN when there's power, and I feel today as though it's causing me to write in a more factual manner than you may be accustomed to. It's either that or the Nepali lessons. I can now ask about your family, explain who is in my family, and comment on someone showering if I need to. As for the update on the cargo, there is no update, and I haven't yet heard from Maskey, our shipping agent in Calcutta, which means the letter hasn't been received yet. I'm sure it'll work out eventually, as things here often do, despite the best efforts of contrarian forces. Walk off word.....

As promised, Nick Becks. Who knew the Diamondbacks v. Brewers game would be a playoff preview? Also, we will be bringing the baldness level up in Nepal considerably.

Pradip, he knows what I get for breakfast each morning, and is a friend. I promised him a watch like mine when I get back to the states

Sachin set this up. A basketball net turned target to teach the kids how to turn their shoulders the same way you would when throwing a ball.

They're awaiting instruction

I always have one of the kids demonstrate and speak to the group after we have gone over the skills for the day.

Yes, the line goes for about 75 yards worth of kids

From the bed/desk of Stan Witko

 Okay, I'm not sure why I included this first picture. Maybe it's indicative of how I live; Map sprawled out, Nepal guide book, baseball hat, and computer case. Also, this doubles as my desk. You see, my room has two beds and no desk. Although this picture is somewhat misleading because I recently switched to sleeping on this bed, and turned the other bed into a desk. It just get much better light 2 yards away.

 This is from Durbar Square, Kathmandu. Clearly the palace on the right has been repaired and refinished to look a bit more modern. I think a giant earthquake destroyed the first one. Also, these are the least convoluted electricity wires in all of Nepal. I was able to meet a Korean man today, Tommy Kim, who is also importing some junior and ladies clubs into Nepal. He is also a reporter for YTN, a 24 hour news Channel. The best thing about meeting him and talking with him is his willingness to help get HYGA into some orphanages to brighten the kids days a little bit. This is the kind of thing I was hoping to do more of since arriving in Nepal. I figure I have about 5 more weeks in KTM before I head to Pokhara and turn the program partly over to my newest (and only) employee, Sachin Bhattari. He will be accompanying me to the orphanage until I leave, at which point he should be capable of running that part of the program himself.

 Another thing I'm doing is creating a yardage book for RNGC. This is the first hole. If the best junior players can learn to use a yardage book, they will improve their scores dramatically.

 Also the first hole. Notice the city in the background. The golf course is always a welcome change of pace from being inside the city. Oh, did I mention we are going to be in negotiations to get our own executive course in Pokhara to turn use a junior academy? That's freakin' awesome!
I can't remember if I've already mentioned that and going back through words I've already written perfectly seems like a waste of time. That excitement was muted a bit today as absolutely nothing happened. (well we mapped out two more holes) and I basically hung out at the clubhouse all day studying Nepali and drinking coffee. There are worse things in life, however. (political burn!)

Hole #4, a par 5 that goes up hill to the right

How about another view of the same par 5, different tee box?

Back to the Future.

Okay, so I am still waiting for the shipment of golf equipment to come in. It is truly remarkable how many different people and ministries must sign off on this thing before it even leaves Calcutta, which is where the 90 boxes have been sitting for a few weeks now. Consider this, we are now being delayed for another few days because the sports minister is sick. That's right, if the head person in any office is down, the whole office is down. It'd be easy to get frustrated with these delays, but it may actually work out for the best, as Nick Becks is planning on arriving sometime in early February. Why is this for the best, you may ask. Because the HYGA is moving to Pokhara. Some of you may remember my incredible pictures of the Himalayan Course, some of you may remember that this is where I spent my Thanksgiving. What I remember about this beautiful town is the laid back atmosphere and the friendly people who seem genuinely happy to help me in promoting junior golf in Nepal.
I can't remember if I touched on the fact that I was able to give a golf lesson to a couple of my American friends the other day. It was an incredibly clear day, and we could see the Himalayas in the distance while practicing. They are the creators of The Kathmanduo, a great blog. I actually contacted Brian and Claudine while I was researching for this job and made it part of my mission to seek them out once I arrived. Their wealth of knowledge about Kathmandu is incredible and they were always quick to answer any absurd questions I may have had. They even tagged me in a recent post, so please check it out here. The following pictures are kind of a mix of a few days, so enjoy see me in my Buff.

This is a courtyard in Patan. What you can't see is the touristy cafe to the left.

This is actually on the ceiling of the walkway into a Buddhist temple. It is the circle of life. Seems Complicated, I'll just wing it.

You can take pictures, but you may not enter. I'm not even sure if this Monk can leave.

Supposedly if you put something into this well, you will get five times the amount in return. I wrote birdie on a piece of paper and tossed it in. I expect to be 5 under the next time I play golf.

Everyone at Terra Lago knows whjat this is about.I almost bough the sweatshirt just to have.

This head piece is called a buff. It can be a scarf, mask, bandana, and probably a sling if you break your arm. This is actually a special 20th anniversary edition and isn't for sale. The owner of an outdoor store gave it to me as a gift.

This dude is part of the Nepal Sports Counsel and is my main go-between in getting the equipment into Nepal. He also helps me with my Nepali homework

Aggressive Guides+Rain+Temples = ?

 Okay, (first of all, why do I always feel the need to start these blog posts with okay? I was trying to fight it, but I think I’ll just own it and make it my own thang) after helping to install a USGA style handicap system at the RNGC yesterday I headed back to my room and while lying in bed I heard a really soothing sound; the sound of rain hitting the window and everything else outside for that matter. (a second side note- I’m pretty sure I use way too many semi colons and parentheses and commas. Cormac McCarthy uses roughly zero, so I’ll take his) At first I thought the rain was just static from the TV and when I realized it wasn’t on, I thought it was my iPhone, and when that wasn’t the case I panicked and thought maybe something was wrong with my hearing. That, my friends, is what happens when you are culturally isolated for so long. The rain was amazing to fall asleep with, is the eventual point of this opening stanza.
Today I ventured to Durbar Square, Kathamndu Style. I highly recommend you click on the link, as I cannot begin to describe the historical relevance with any degree of accuracy. It was a dramatic change from Patan. There were a lot more people, more items for sale; thus more salesmen, an overpriced ticket booth, and a number of aggressive tour guides. You see, you are not required to hire a guide and this time I didn’t feel the need to be led around the square. I had a pamphlet and also had a Nepali friend, Bina, with me. She had actually never been to these particular temples either, but at least she can read Nepali, so I felt good about it. Another thing I felt good about was being complimented on my Nepali accent. I don’t a lot of words, but at least I say some of them well. After paying the 750 rupees to get past the gate (Nepali citizens pay 30 rupees I believe) I was told that the price was actually good for as long as my visa was valid, all I had to do was go to the site office and get a stamp. Well, if you have been following my blog, you know nothing is that simple, (customs, golf programs, etc.,) but I got my hopes up again anyway. I went to the site office and was told that I needed a passport sized picture in order to extend it longer than three days. Of course. I managed to get it extended for three days instead. After that we were accosted by a prospective guide who adamantly demanded 1500 rupees for his services. Politely declining, we continued into a Buddhist temple. He followed us inside and continued to tell us how much better he was than any book. I continued to say no, as did Bina, but he was persistent. Leaving the temple I banged my head against the top of the doorway. Just as I get my hopes up that something may be easily accomplished, I continually bang my head on the smallish doors. I believe there’s a striking correlation there. Or an analogy. Or maybe a future fable. Anyway, this guy followed us out and then began to tell us how we are the reason Nepal is in trouble. Nepalis need to help Nepalis, he practically yelled at us, as we picked up the pace. The rain actually cleared away as we walked through century old temples and palaces and hiked nine stories of a wooden staircase within the museum, dedicated to the history of Kings in Nepal. Cameras were not allowed inside the museum, but they were allowed everywhere else. After spending about an hour and a half in the square, we headed to New Road, where Bina wanted to do some shopping. After a couple hours of bumping into people, dodging traffic, bargaining and getting lost, all I wanted to do was get back to my room and take a shower. No hot water. But it was a great day, and I’m happy to share some pictures with you....

Starting the day at Himalayan Java

Read the link to figure out what this is. I had to.

This is the guy who denied my application, reason? No picture.

More knives, trinkets, and bracelets than you can imagine

I love this picture with all the birds. Especially because none of them dropped anything on me

Gai=Cow

One of the many alleys we ventured down looking for wholesale cosmetics

Intense window shopping.

Patan-Mania

Sanskrit

Nepali Calendar in chalk

This guy either loves or hates bananas right now

I spent the last day of 2011 wandering around Patan, specifically the Durbar square area. Durbar square is a generic name given to a series of temples and holy places in the three parts of Kathmandu. I had coffee in the morning and despite my injured back climbed into a cab, (which is awful for the back since the awful road conditions and lack of any noticeable shock absorbers make for a tough ride anywhere) and bargained for a ride to Patan. At this point in in my tenure in Nepal, I am always happy to get a good deal, for a westerner anyway, and I paid only 300 rupees to get to Patan from Thamel. I also talked the guide down from 1000 to 300 for an hour of explaining the temples and their meanings to me! I can’t remember half of what he said, but the day was perfect. I could actually see some of the mountain range in the background and didn’t need a jacket.
HYGA update - There will be a major shift in emphasis for the HYGA in the coming months. I will update this blog with the details as soon as things are finalized. I have spent the past month analyzing our program and what we needed for growth. I have probably written and re-written (rewritten? it doesn’t sound right) five different SWOT analysis reports, and have spoken with a number of the Professionals here in order to get an idea of what can and can’t be done. If what I want to get accomplished in the next five months can be achieved, the next PGA pro who comes here will have an amazing opportunity to truly grow golf in Nepal. I have surmised that just giving lessons a few days a week and adjusting a level program for the kids to move up based on their skills (again, props to Dom for getting that done!), while definitely needed, is not enough to sustain our program. Spoiler alert - especially in Kathmandu.....more to follow.. for now enjoy the amazing Durbar Square in Patan.

Durbar Square, Patan. The buildings on the left are temples. The building on the right is a palace

Kaama Sutra positions. When people would get married at young ages (10 yrs old!) they would come and study these positions so they knew what to do.

Shiva Temple

This is a fertility thingy. Women bring milk and water to this and pray for a boy.

Praying to this monument will bring you good luck in travel

Buddhist Monastery